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A Restaurant Review of Zucco in Leeds: “Everything You Need is Taken Care Of”


Renowned restaurateur Russell Norman was memorialized at Brutto in London recently, where his signature ritual of playing an eight-minute version of Prince’s Purple Rain at top volume was reenacted. The event showcased the influence of Norman’s restaurant concepts on the dining industry, including Zucco, a small-plates Italian restaurant in Leeds, reminiscent of Norman’s own Polpo in Soho.

Zucco, established by Rosario Leggiero after working with Norman on the original Polpo, offers a menu filled with well-priced dishes designed for sharing. The restaurant’s intimate atmosphere and diverse menu are testaments to the legacy of Russell Norman in shaping the modern restaurant experience.

The similarities to Salvo’s, a prominent Italian restaurant in Leeds from the 1980s, can be felt in the emotional connection of Zucco, with an equal touch of 20th-century charm and 21st-century Polpo influence in its menu. Alongside an expansive dessert list, the restaurant offers freshly prepared dishes, such as carta di musica, pizzette, and white risotto with ox cheek.

Reflecting on the time spent at Zucco, food critic Jay Rayner noted the restaurant as a vital part of Russell’s legacy. Rayner’s experience at the restaurant coincided with news of chef Regis Crepy’s return to Bury St Edmunds, and the opening of the first Boojum Mexican restaurant in England.

In contrast, there was also news of two restaurant closures – the Cellar in Anstruther, Fife, and Frenchie in Covent Garden, London. Both closures represented different reasons for the restaurateurs, with Billy Boyter selling after a decade at the Cellar, and chef Gregory Marchand citing a challenging year as the reason for closing Frenchie.

Overall, Zucco’s influence in reflecting Russell Norman’s legacy created a memorable dining experience, showcasing the impact of his concepts on the restaurant industry.

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Photo credit www.theguardian.com

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